In all-custom work, it's difficult to determine a hard-and-fast standard pricing list. There are many variables I have to take into account: the difficulty of the project, the fabrics used, the amount of time the project will take, how much preparation is required, the availability of some materials, etc.

Having said that, there are a few guidelines that generally hold true for everything, the first of which is that my time prices out at about $22 an hour for skilled labour. I determine my costs by the actual time I work, not the time I'm slacking off and taking a break with West Wing and some Earl Grey. While I custom-draft a pattern for almost every corset I make, I do occasionally have some corsets already on hand in various sizes and colours. These are available for $50 less than the corset prices listed below.

Also, velvet and leather and other more exotic materials will add to the cost of any garment, as will special finishing work such as embroidery, beading or dyework. And having said that, here's a rough guide to what I usually charge for certain items.

• Basic MayFaire Moon Corset Bodice in poplin or silk dupioni, one or two colours: $350
• Five-Lacing Corset Bodice: $450
• Five-Lacing Corset Bodice with lace overlay: $500
• Five-Lacing Corset Bodice in leather: $500
• Basic woman's chemise (cotton gauze): $75
• Basic circle skirt (cotton): $30
• Lace handkerchief-hem skirt: $35
• Man's doublet in velvet with tie-in sleeves: $550
• Very full poet's shirt with band collar (Pima cotton): $85
• Ankle-length wool cloak, hooded, satin-lined: $250
• Be sure to visit the gallery to see samples!

Major, one-of-a-kind projects are something I work out with my client in advance, and with very clear guidelines. I require half the final price down, and the remainder upon completion. I can accept credit cards via PayPal, and all personal checks must clear before delivery. Shipping is a separate charge-- usually around $15 for a corset-- and I'll let you know how much it will be just before I send out your goodies. It's always best to tell me what kind of budget you're working with; I can often make less expensive but still damn nifty versions of many items.

As I've been trained as a designer, the creative process of working out an idea from ephemera to pencil and paint is very, very important to me. I'm big on design as a big, gloriously messy, all-over-the-place give-and-take process, with preliminary sketches, research photos, and lots of communication between me and my clients. As such, with major projects like gowns, full costumes, or wedding dresses, I charge $25 for a final, full-colour costume sketch.

If you choose to go ahead and have me do the construction work, that charge comes off the price of the garment. For a small fee, I am also happy to shop your costume and get your fabrics for you should you choose to have someone else construct it—I live fairly close to the oldest continuously-operating garment district in the US and hey, I'm down there all the time, anyway.

All fittings and alterations are included in my prices. I have done intemet-only work, so as long as you can give me accurate measurements (I'll send you a list of what I require) and ship mock-ups back to me if needed, I can still accommodate you wherever you live. If you're in the Philadelphia area, of course, in person fittings are best-I try to aim for three preliminary fittings and a final fitting before delivery. I've also been known to travel if the price is right. (Clients in London, Bermuda, Scotland, and Atlanta given priority, baby!)

All Guild members (Wenches Guild, RenMercs, Privateers, Rogues, Vampire Hunters, etc.) get a 10% discount. If you're not a Guild member, you can rectify this egregious error at the Lundegaard Armoury website.

One important note I always make sure to tell all my clients: this is not, as yet, my primary source of income. I still must toil for The Man, alas, which puts certain restrictions on my time. As such, I will do my damnedest for you, but I CANNOT GUARANTEE DEADLINES.

Obviously, time-sensitive items such as wedding dresses don't have the option of a late delivery, but if you have something you need for the next Dracula's Ball or the opening weekend of MDRF, you must contact me as far in advance as possible-- six weeks at the latest unless you are willing to pay for a Rush job. I will be completely honest with you if I feel I can't deliver your satin glory in time, or if I feel I might have a problem getting materials (especially leather) in time. Also, you must make yourself available for fittings, if required.